Woman's Day & a wintry road trip to Ceres

Explore a wintry Women's Day road trip to Ceres with me, where a trendy coffee shop kicks off a day of scenic drives, mountain passes, canola fields, an historic town, a little Hamlet and a nature reserve. 

When my husband entered a Bowls Competition in Ceres on Women's Day, I was quite thrilled to tag along for the ride. A day spent exploring the surroundings - on my own time and agenda - is just up my street. After dropping him and his bowls partner off in icy, blustery and drizzly weather (with a forecast max temperature of 11℃), I set off on my ‘adventure.’ (Ziplining was obviously not on the cards due to the weather). 

But first, coffee. As it was 08h30 in the morning, a cappuccino was the first order of the day. I had already Googled the top-rated coffee shops in Ceres and so made my way to the trendy Tremor Coffee Bar. 

There are some coffee shops that just have that ‘x-factor', making you feel at home as soon as you cross the threshold. This was one of them. 

Remove the surrounding Koue Bokkeveld Mountains and you could pretend you had stepped into a NY loft apartment. The industrial chic edge was warm and comfortable with weathered leather couches inviting you to sit awhile. You got the feeling that this is where people come to connect, escape, or just read the newspaper. 

The 'Tribeca' ambience was complemented with modern art on the walls, laden deli shelves, glass domes tempting you with freshly baked treats, wall art quotes and a steady stream of happy customers. This combo prevented you from rushing in and out for coffee-on-the-go, despite your original intent. (Even a group of cyclists seemed to be in no rush to get back on their bikes). Places to go and adventures to be had could wait a little. (All that was missing was a roaring fireplace, but then perhaps one would never leave!). 

Because I had the whole day to explore the area, why not take a drive to Tulbagh? This historic town was only 20 minutes away, but it took me a little longer for a couple of reasons:

1. Michell’s Pass: South Africa is home to a host of impressive and imposing mountain passes that take your breath away. Michell’s Pass is another one to add to the list. 

A couple of viewing areas allow you to pull over and take it all in, appreciate the scenery and marvel at the raging river below and majestic mountains all around. 

2. Canola fields: These are quite a sight to behold on the outskirts of Tulbagh. (In Afrikaans there's a word to describe it: ‘skilderagtig’, which, loosely translated, means ‘paint worthy’). 

Gravel farm tracks beckoned me to pull over in an attempt to capture the golden beauty framed by the Obiqua Mountains to the west, the Winterhoek Mountains in the north and the Witzenberg Mountains to the east. 

Eventually I pulled in at Tulbagh. 

As the rain had let up, a walk up and down historic Church Street - photographing the whitewashed houses - was a must. Tulbagh is definitely Cape Dutch prettiness personified. (I have been here once before, but this time I had time to visit in a more leisurely manner). 

The development of the town of Tulbagh dates back to 1743, but the reason a walk up and down Church street is prescribed is due to its more recent backstory dating back to the 1969 earthquake which devastated the town and caused widespread damage to the iconic Cape Dutch houses along this street. 

In the aftermath, a dedicated restoration project was launched to meticulously rebuild these homes and safeguard their cultural and historical significance. Today, the 32 restored buildings constitute the largest collection of National monuments in a single South African street and stand as a testament to Tulbagh's resilience and commitment to preserving its architectural heritage. 

After a sourdough toastie - named ‘Saartjie’ - at Kole & Deeg coffee shop and artisanal bakery (they're famous for their roosterkoek), this intrepid day tripper headed back to Ceres, which, BTW, was aptly named after the Roman goddess of agriculture. 

The next stop on my list was Prince Alfred’s Hamlet, just 10 minutes north of Ceres. Up until a couple of months ago I hadn't heard of this little platteland town surrounded by fruit orchards, but having watched a Kyknet reality series - ‘Lottoland help ‘n dorp’ - it was now on my radar and my curiosity was piqued. 

Besides its impressive signage announcing you had arrived, there’s not much going on on this tiny remote hamlet, but it is the gateway to the Gydo Pass and the Matroosberg via the Swaarmoed Pass. The rain looked like it was holding off, so I impulsively decided to visit The Matroosberg Nature Reserve in the hope of seeing an early showing of wildflowers. 

This is where you can learn from my mistakes. I should have phoned in advance, but in the spirit of adventure (and with time on my hands), I traversed the 37km only to arrive disappointed. I was too early for the flowers (late September is recommended), and I was too late for the snow, unless I was prepared to hike to the top of the mountain. (Maybe next time). Clearly my optimism cannot defy seasonal realities. I did pass Klondyke Cherry Farm, but that is only open to visitors for cherry picking in November and December. (Now you know). 

With my adventurous spirit slowly waning, it was time to head back to Ceres and check in on the bowlers. 

But my trip to the Matroosberg Nature Reserve wasn’t a complete waste. I did get to travel the Swaarmoed Pass surrounded by rugged mountain ranges, a diverse display of fynbos, and stunning views over the Ceres valley. (But, because of my disheartened mood at this point, I did not stop to take photos). 

Here's my ‘seasoned’ advice to fellow travellers: Perhaps August isn’t the best time of the year to visit the Ceres Valley (unless you're going for a Bowls competition). 

And yet, on reflection, I still had a great day, got some good coffee, great photos and had enough of an experience to share with you in this blogpost. 

Postscript: What I will suggest is that when you do decide to visit Ceres, pop in at Bosjes Wine Estate in the Breedekloof valley en route. (Just check their visiting times). 

The architecturally avant garde wedding chapel is out of this world and the scale and narrative of the landscaped gardens is a uniquely tranquil and beautiful visual experience. 

Till next time...

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