One night in Arniston etc...
Explore the charm, history and diversity of the Overberg region with me. Our one night in Arniston took us on a road trip filled with scenic landscapes and canola fields, welcoming small towns like Bredasorp and Napier, visits to local attractions and heritage sites including Kassiesbaai and L'Agulhas, plus the pretty harbour town of Struisbaai.
All the hype about the diverse and scenic Overberg is completely justified. But outside of Hermanus and Stanford, we had not explored the repertoire of seaside villages and inland dorpies that make up this region's DNA. That all changed when we decided to spend one night in Arniston.
From Montagu, Arniston is roughly an hour and a half away, so we planned a leisurely drive; ready to explore. My husband was forewarned to stop at a moment’s notice for me to take photographs, should the occasion or scenery demand it. (For those who know me, I can see your wry smiles and feel your sympathy for my ever-patient husband/driver).
The first en-route side-of-road stop was a nostalgic one in Stormsvlei. This darling little Klein Karoo farm cottage became the featured image of my Route 62 road trip blog. But seeing it in the mist gave it a romantic edge. A photo had to be taken. (I think you'll agree)
The next en-route ‘wow moment’ was all to do with canola fields; as far as the eye can see. Perhaps the interior design colour blocking trend was inspired by the Overberg farmlands in August? (It’s no wonder canola fields have inspired paintings, poems and music lyrics). As soon as we found a farm road access with an open gate inviting us to stop, the photo op began.
Of course, the breathtaking beauty of these chartreuse fields cannot be captured properly on camera, but we try.
Bredasdorp | An emporium, a church ‘feud’ & a museum
To reach Arniston we had to go through Bredasdorp, a platteland agricultural town dating back to 1838. This little economic hub, serving as a gateway to the surrounding Overberg coastal towns and inland villages, encourages you to slow down and stay awhile. Its open, welcoming and peaceful feel reminded me of the charming small towns in New Zealand; a compliment, indeed. (There are even sheep in the surrounding fields).
Starting at the Bredasdorp Square (where you can eat, sleep and shop), we chose to eat, followed by a browse in the shopping emporium which is filled to the brim with visual loveliness and tempting delights.
After coffee and baked salted caramel cheesecake, this pretty ‘dorp’ beckoned to be explored, starting with the church.
All these historic towns were built around a central Dutch Reformed Church, and this one’s Victorian-Gothic architecture is beautifully preserved.
There’s an interesting story about the Bredasdorp Church: Michiel van Breda, a merino sheep farmer in the area (and mayor of Cape Town), and his neighbour, Pieter Voltelyn van der Byl on the farm, Klipdrift, couldn’t agree on where the community church should be. Both wanted the church built on their own farm. The ‘obvious’ solution to such a dilemma was to build two separate churches; one in Bredasdorp and one in Napier, just 10km away. (But more on Napier later).
After struggling to find a decent angle to take a photo of said church, our next ‘port of call’ was The Maritime Shipwreck Museum. (You really don’t have to be a museum buff or love history to enjoy this one).
For an entrance fee of only R35, we got a 5-in-1 experience: the shipwreck museum, the old coach house, a trip down memory lane, the old Pastorie and a sparkling exhibition of glass bottles; all housed in lush gardens where an ancient giant fig tree stands guard over shipwrecked anchors.
What makes The Shipwreck Museum fascinating are the stories that sank with these ships told through letters, photographs, artefacts, crockery, furniture and personal belongings which are all on display.
The wrecks along the Southern Cape coastline - that later became known as the ‘graveyard of the ships’ - date back to as early as 1673 and there have been around 130 ships sailing from ports all over the world that sadly succumbed to the curse of these dangerous waters.
Arniston | Kassiesbaai, a local resident & a cave
A mere 20 minutes southeast of Bredasdorp is Arniston (aka Waenhusikrans). It is the only town in South Africa that has 2 official names. ‘The Arniston’ was a ship sailing from Ceylon that was wrecked on this jagged shore in 1815, and Waenhuiskrans (wagon house cliff) is named after the natural beach cave that could potentially accommodate a wagon and span of oxen.
The serene aesthetic of Arniston is partly due to all the beach cottages (and larger houses) being painted white.
This monochromatic narrative - set against sea, sand and rocky cliffs - makes Arniston/Waenhuiskrans a destination that will reset your sense of calm in minutes.
The Arniston Spa Hotel, which is perfectly positioned for ocean views, was our accommodation for the night.
On arrival we made our way to Kassiesbaai, a traditional fishing village and Grade 1 national heritage site. The name comes from the wooden crates (paraffin kassies) that washed up on shore from shipwrecks and which the local fishermen used to build their cottages and then covered with clay plaster and a thatched roof.
Kassiesbaai is a snapshot of the past; a contented life personifying old-world charm and simplicity. As I walked around this working fishing village, it felt like I had stepped into a painting. One cannot help but be entranced by this slice of life.
The resident fisherfolk were going about their daily business: hanging up washing, descaling freshly caught fish and chatting to their neighbours. They paid me no mind as I tried to take it all in.
I was fortunate to meet a local called John, who was happy to give me the time of day as I wandered around. (Fortunately, my Afrikaans is pretty good). He told me he was born in Kassiesbaai, had raised his children and grandchildren here, and gave me permission to take a photo of him in front of his house. (I think he was quite chuffed).
One of the traditional fisherman's cottages - Willeen’s Arts and Crafts Cafe - is known for serving fresh local fare. We ordered the fish and fishcakes with a side order of chips and salad. The homely rustic vibe included being surrounded by souvenirs, crochet items, shell necklaces and crafts, and local artist’s paintings; all for sale. (You don’t get more authentic than this).
Aside from enjoying the sea air and salty breeze in Arniston, a visit to the Waenhuiskrans cave was on our to-do list. The logistics are tricky as access is only at low tide during the day. So we had to schedule that for the next morning’s low tide at 07h45.
The 800m trek to get there requires either a proper 4x4 vehicle (where you can park and then walk down to the cave), via the footpath (which has you clambering up and down sea cliffs and over rocks), or walking along the road to the Otter Beach parking area and traipsing down the dunes. (The signposts are a little confusing).
Whether you take the high road or the low road, non-slip shoes and some gritty determination are prescribed. (But trust me, to get a photo like this makes it worth it).
L’ Agulhas | Two oceans, a lighthouse & 71 steps
Just 45 minutes from Arniston is Agulhas National Park. (There is a shorter gravel route via Prinskraal, but due to the recent heavy rains and flooding, that road was closed).
Also a national heritage site, there's good reason Cape Agulhas is a firm favourite with locals and tourists.
You have, after all, arrived at the southernmost tip of Africa and officially the point where the Indian and Atlantic oceans meet. (Almost as exciting as standing on the Equator in Uganda).
And then, towering above, is the Agulhas lighthouse; built in 1848 and first lit in 1849. It’s an impressive 27m high sandstone maritime beacon, a national monument, and the second oldest working lighthouse in South Africa.
An invitation to climb to the top of the lighthouse (at R42 per person) meant this was not the time to give into any fear of heights. It had to be climbed. 71 Steep ladder-like steps take you to the top where the 360 degree lookout over the immense coastline is breathtaking.
Struisbaai | A harbour, fishing boats & a touristy moment
On the way to and from Cape Agulhas, you pass through the coastal town of Struisbaai; a popular holiday destination and weekend getaway. Legend has it that the first Dutch or Portuguese sailor must have encountered ‘volstruise’ (ostriches) here.
An interesting fact about Struisbaai is that it has the longest stretch of natural beach in the Southern Hemisphere. Add to that its Blue Flag Beach, white sand, clear waters, boardwalk and whale watching opportunities and you have a must-visit spot.
Built in 1959 ,the Struisbaai harbour is a thriving hub of activity with colourful fishermen’s boats scattered along the dock.
There is definitely a laidback energy here and I wish we had more time to explore. (Next time).
Napier | Colours, characters & ‘all sorts’
Napier was such a surprise and is all about the feels. How you pronounce it is a bit like potato/potāto, but the locals will set you right. This delightful little countryside town had me ‘oohing’ and ‘aahing’ as we drove up and down the main street. Unfortunately time was limited (we had to get home for the rugby as the Springboks were playing the Wallabies), so we didn't get to experience all the ‘feels. (Next time)
The entrance to the town greets you with a turquoise building, wall art and the ‘controversial’ church in the background. (Yes, this is the one Pieter Voltelyn van der Byl got his way with).
Even though we didn't get to explore the galleries, antique haunts, or farm stalls, what we did get to do was enough to tempt us to return in the future.
This is definitely a quirky town that invites you to linger.
Our first stop was Blue House Books, a second hand indie bookstore whose motto is: ‘We love to keep you reading.’ It is jam-packed full of literary goodness, and even if you aren’t a reader you will feel cocooned and happy in this space.
Next on the agenda was pastries and cappuccinos, and I think we stumbled on the perfect spot: The Restio Coffee Shop and Bakery. Housed in an original Stables and Wagon House dating back to 1896, the outside is painted bright red and the inside is just a joy. In their own words, they are bringing ‘a touch of street-side Parisian café culture to Napier.’ I agree! The owner’s personable nature made us feel like we were regulars.
And now for the ‘all sorts.’ There’s an interesting mix of characters in Napier and one of them is a gentleman called Leon who, alongside his wife, runs a tea room offering homemade scones and a quaint gift shop. But wait, there’s more. Leon is ‘famous’ for his themed pewter chess sets illustrating historical events: The Battle of the Alamo, The Battle of Waterloo, The Crusaders, Robin Hood, and The Three Musketeers.
In the spirit of Napier hospitality, you’re likely to be ‘ambushed’ by Leon and personally invited to view his extensive private collection of militaria that comes with interesting facts and tales plus a demonstration of how he makes his pewter chess pieces. It’s definitely his passion project and a one-of-a-kind experience.
And then it was time to reluctantly say goodbye to Napier. But our departure still had one more photo op in store in the canola fields on the outskirts of the town, bookending our one night trip to Arnison.
The Overberg has certainly captured our imagination, as it will yours. With something for everyone - adrenalin junkies, adventurous spirits. beach bums, nature lovers, photographers and travel bloggers - go ahead and add it to your road trip wish list.
Until next time…
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